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Cheap food in Buenos Aires, from pizza counters to Sunday fairs

Palermo food walk in Buenos Aires

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The quick version

Cheap food in Buenos Aires means pizza by the slice at Corrientes counters, big bodegón plates, the San Telmo market, Sunday fairs such as Mataderos and Chinatown's street stalls.

Eat cheap

  • Güerrín: 70 kinds of pizza16
  • Mataderos fair: Sundays, March to December12
  • Tap water is drinkable78

Open 42 stops

Where to eat in Buenos Aires, pin by pin

First pick a route, then tap any pin or stop for details and Google Maps.

Map of Buenos Aires with the cheap eats: the pizzerias of Avenida Corrientes, the San Telmo market and Sunday fair, the Costanera Sur reserve, the Mataderos fair and Belgrano

  1. Since 1932, 70 kinds of pizza; open until 01 h, 02 h at weekends.

    Google Maps

  2. Pizza al molde with golden mozzarella since 1932.

    Google Maps

  3. Since 1956; pizzas arrive in their old pans.

    Google Maps

  4. Since 1934; eat standing at the counter or at a table.

    Google Maps

  5. Sandwiches eaten at the bar, a chef's cheap pick.

    Google Maps

  6. Pizza al molde or a la piedra and three kinds of fainá.

    Google Maps

  7. Food stalls among antiques, open daily 9 to 20 h.

    Google Maps

  8. Heart of the Sunday San Telmo fair, more than 230 stalls.

    Google Maps

  9. Stand-up pizza counter: fugazza, fugazzetta and fainá, no tables.

    Google Maps

  10. Almagro pizzeria from 1927, known for fried meat empanadas.

    Google Maps

  11. 350 hectares of green by the river, good for a picnic.

    Google Maps

  12. Sunday fair, March to December: empanadas, locro and tamales.

    Google Maps

  13. A vegetarian shiitake ramen a chef recommends for under 10 dollars.

    Google Maps

Mapping data © OpenStreetMap contributors

You can eat extremely well in Buenos Aires without a restaurant bill: pizza by the slice at a marble counter, a milanesa in a bodegón, empanadas at a Sunday fair. Here are the places, the habits and the street food walks.

Editorial team, buenosairesfoodtour.click · Updated November 11, 2026 · Quick read: 7 min

In brief

  • Pizza al pasoStand at the bar for a quick slice, as office workers do.1
  • BodegónPlentiful home-made classics at affordable prices.2
  • MarketSan Telmo's market hall, 9 to 20 h every day.3
  • Sunday fairMataderos: empanadas, locro and tamales.4
  • Chef's tipGüerrín for a meal under 10 dollars.5

Why eating cheap is easy in Buenos Aires

Cheap food in Buenos Aires is not a compromise: some of the city's most loved places are its least formal. Many traditional pizzerias have a stand-up bar for a fast slice after the office and a dining room for those who want to sit.1 Bodegones, the old neighbourhood canteens, serve plentiful home-made classics at affordable prices.2 Add empanadas, choripán and a café breakfast, and a day of very good eating costs far less than a single dinner in a famous room.

Even the country's top chefs eat this way. Gonzalo Aramburu, whose restaurant holds 2 MICHELIN Stars, sends people to Güerrín on Avenida Corrientes for a meal under 10 dollars.5,6 Germán Martitegui recommends the vegetarian shiitake ramen at Orei in the same price range, and Sarkis, an Arab restaurant, as good, nice and cheap.7,8 Narda Lepes points to the sandwiches at Café Paulín, eaten sitting at the bar.9

The best cheap eats in Buenos Aires share a few habits: you eat at a counter, you share, and you order the house speciality rather than reading the whole menu. Time lunch well, since restaurants serve it and then usually close until dinner.10 Menus change, so check the prices before you sit, and carry some cash for kiosks and stand-up counters.

Where to go

Cheap eats across the city

PlaceWhatHow you eat
GüerrínPizza al moldeStanding or seated
El CuartitoFugazzeta, pizzaCounter or table
PiriloFugazza, faináStanding only
Mercado San TelmoMarket stallsCounters
Feria de MataderosEmpanadas, locroSunday fair
ChinatownAsian street foodSidewalk
Spiagge di NapoliPasta by weightTake away
Café PaulínSandwichesAt the bar

Each place as described by the city's tourism board or by the chefs Visit Argentina interviewed.16,24,28,29,4,30,31,9

Pizza al paso on Avenida Corrientes

Avenida Corrientes is the spine of cheap eating downtown. Güerrín, opened in 1932 by Genoese partners, has 70 pizzas on its menu, and the dough is still worked by hand in a large trough.16,17 It opens from 11 h until 01 h, and until 02 h on Friday and Saturday, so it suits a late slice after the theatre.15 Order at the counter, stand, eat, leave: that is pizza al paso.

Las Cuartetas opened in 1932 too and serves pizza al molde under a layer of golden mozzarella.18 Legend says its name comes from the verses a famous lyricist wrote on its paper napkins.19 El Palacio de la Pizza, from 1956, brings the pizzas to the table in pans worn by years of use.20,21 Los Inmortales, opposite Güerrín, has been there since 1952.22

A few blocks north, El Cuartito on Talcahuano has been open since 1934 and is run by the third generation of its family.23 You can eat standing at the counter, at a small bar by the door or at a table, and people queue for it any day.24 El Mazacote on Chile street offers three versions of fainá next to its pizzas.25 In Almagro, Pin Pun, founded in 1927 by the same immigrants who opened Güerrín, is known for fried meat empanadas.26

Choice at the counter

How big the pizza menus are

  • Güerrín pizzas70
  • 1893 pizzas31
  • Mazacote fainás3

Güerrín lists 70 kinds of pizza, 1893 in Villa Crespo lists 31, and El Mazacote serves 3 versions of fainá.16,27,25

Bodegones: big plates at neighbourhood prices

For a sit-down meal on a budget, the bodegón is the answer. The city tourism board describes the menu as pasta, minutas and some seafood, the minutas being quick dishes such as milanesas, chicken supremas and fries.32,33 Visit Argentina adds fritters, omelettes, fried calamari and stews, with flan and dulce de leche for dessert.2,34 Portions are built for sharing, so order less than you think.

Some have been cooking for generations. Spiagge di Napoli, a family cantina in Almagro dating from 1926, will weigh out fresh hand-made pasta for a cheap picnic or hostel dinner.35,31 Lo de Mary, also in Almagro, serves vermouth with soda and a run of small plates before noon on Sundays, and takes cash only.36 Bar Portuario in La Boca, open since 1915, cooks simple, abundant bodegón food with fish and seafood as the speciality.37

The city also promotes a Semana de los Bodegones, when more than 80 of these canteens offer special menus at promotional prices.38 If your visit coincides, it is the cheapest way to try several. The rest of the year, go at lunchtime, sit where the waiter puts you and ask for the dish of the day; career waiters who know the menu by heart are part of the deal.39

Eat well for less

Which cheap eat suits you?

Pick your situation and the cheapest good option follows.

  • If I only have a few minutes and want pizza

    Pizza al paso

    Stand at the bar for a quick portion.1

  • If I want a full, cheap lunch

    A bodegón

    Plentiful home-made classics at affordable prices.2

  • If It is Sunday

    Feria de Mataderos

    Empanadas, locro and tamales with folk music.4

  • If I want variety under one roof

    Mercado San Telmo

    Shawarma, empanadas, raclette and choripán.29

  • If I want something non-Argentine

    Chinatown

    Stalls and sidewalk eating in Belgrano.30

  • If I'd like a local to pick the stops

    A street food tour

    San Telmo with street food and drinks, 3.5 hours.

Cheap formats compared

Counter, canteen or fair?

Quick bite

Pizza counter

Fast, standing

  • WhereCorrientes
  • OrderMuzzarella, fainá
  • TimeDay or night
See the options

Full lunch

Bodegón

Big plates, sit down

  • OrderMilanesa
  • ShareYes
  • PayCash helps
See the options

Sunday treat

Fair stall

Outdoor, weekends

  • WhereMataderos
  • OrderEmpanadas, locro
  • WhenSundays
See the options

Markets and Sunday fairs

Mercado San Telmo, opened in February 1897, is the easiest cheap lunch in the old town.79 Among antiques and old photographs, its stalls sell shawarma, Salta-style empanadas, raclette and choripán.29 It opens every day from 9 to 20 h.3 Around the corner on Defensa, Pirilo serves fugazzetta, fugazza and fainá to customers standing at the counter, with no tables at all.28

On Sundays San Telmo becomes a fair. Visit Argentina counts around 15,000 visitors every Sunday on Plaza Dorrego and Defensa Street, with more than 230 stalls of antiques and crafts.80,11 The fair began in 1970.81 Eat early, before the crowds, and wear your bag on your front; the UK lists the San Telmo market and area among places to be particularly cautious about theft.82

For the most local Sunday, go west to the Feria de Mataderos, which runs from March to December, 11 AM to 7 PM.12 Its stalls sell empanadas, locro, choripán, spit-roast meat, pastelitos, tortas fritas and tamales, with folk music on stage.4 The fair began more than 30 years ago and is listed as cultural heritage of the city.83 At weekends the travelling Buenos Aires Market sets up in a different square with organic fruit, bread and cheese.84

Street food with a guide

Price a street food tour for your group

Choose your group size and compare two San Telmo walks and a city tour with street food.

3 options compared

Price a street food tour for your group

Choose your group size and compare two San Telmo walks and a city tour with street food.

2 people
  1. San Telmo street food3.5 hours · for one person from $69

    ≈

    View
  2. City tour, street food3 to 5 hours · for one person from $38

    ≈

    View
  3. San Telmo and market2 hours · for one person from $13

    ≈

    View

GetYourGuide's starting prices, converted at the ECB reference rate; exact pricing appears when you book.

A cheap Sunday

From market to fair to pizza

  1. 9 h

    San Telmo market

    Stalls open every day.3

  2. Morning

    San Telmo fair

    Over 230 stalls on Defensa.11

  3. 11 AM

    Mataderos fair

    Empanadas and locro.12

  4. Afternoon

    Merienda

    Coffee and a pastry.13

  5. Evening

    Ice cream

    A dulce de leche cone.14

  6. Late

    Pizza al paso

    Güerrín serves until 01 h.15

Street food: choripán, Chinatown and the riverside

Argentina's signature street snack is the choripán, a grilled sausage of beef or pork tucked into a crusty roll and sold from stalls nationwide.85 Add chimichurri, the herby sauce of parsley, garlic and oregano in oil.86 Visit Argentina notes that the choripán won the street food category of Taste Atlas in 2023.87 Look for it at the weekend fairs and at the San Telmo market.29

Chinatown in Belgrano is the other cheap street food district. Via Viva, under the Mitre railway viaduct, has stalls with small outdoor tables and covered rooms.30 Along pasaje Echeverría the counters mostly lack tables and waiters, so the pavement becomes the dining room.30 Orei, the ramen counter a top chef recommends, is on Echeverría too.7 Around Chinese New Year, between late January and early February, the barrio hosts a big fair with food stalls.88

By the river, the Costanera Sur promenade once drew the whole city to its restaurants, beer halls and bathing beach, in the early decades of the 20th century.89 Today it leads into the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, 350 hectares of green and the largest open space in the city.74 Take food along and picnic; the UK names the Ecological Reserve among areas to watch your belongings, so keep valuables out of sight.82

Video

Street food in the Chinatown of Buenos Aires

Mike Chen on YouTube · Nothing is fetched until you hit play.

Many traditional pizzerias have a space to eat standing up at the bar (popular with people ordering a quick portion of pizza on their way home from work)
Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo)1

Eat cheap, eat well

A cheap-eats checklist

Before4

  • Carry some cash; some places take cash only36
  • Use ATMs indoors, in hotels or supermarkets75
  • Plan Sunday for the Mataderos or San Telmo fair12
  • Never change money with street arbolitos76

At the counter4

  • Ask for fainá on top of your slice77
  • Share bodegón plates, they are huge2
  • Tap water is drinkable in the city78
  • Go for lunch, then rest before a late dinner10

Breakfast, merienda and kiosk snacks

The cheapest meal of the porteño day is breakfast: a coffee and medialunas at any café counter. Ask for a cortado, espresso cut with a little hot milk, and a medialuna on the side.90 Medialunas come either buttery and glazed or salty, made with beef fat.91 Facturas, the wider family of pastries, keep company with coffee and mate morning and afternoon.92

The afternoon merienda is the second cheap window: cafés usually serve it, often as a coffee and a piece of cake.13 If you want to splurge a little, Las Violetas in Almagro is famous for generous meriendas, though a queue forms most afternoons.93 For a quick lunch, Café Paulín downtown serves sandwiches you eat sitting at the bar.9

Kiosks fill the gaps. Corner kiosks sell alfajores, the biscuits sandwiched with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate, a treat that reached its industrial, packaged peak in the 1950s.94 Ice cream is everywhere too, with heladerías from big chains to tiny makers all over the city.95 A cone of dulce de leche, the classic flavour, is a small luxury worth an afternoon detour.14

Safe street food, cash and a street food tour

Is street food safe to eat? Common sense applies. The city tourism board confirms that tap water from the public network is drinkable.78 Canada still advises safe food and water precautions and frequent hand washing because of hepatitis A risk.96 Do not accept food or drink from strangers and never leave your drink unattended.97

Carry some cash. Some old places take cash only, such as Lo de Mary.36 ATMs work around the clock and accept the main international cards; use one indoors, in a hotel or a supermarket, rather than on the street.98,75 Never change money with the street dealers called arbolitos in the Microcentro: their trade is illegal.76 When paying by card, ask for the machine to be brought to your table.99

Prefer to hand the choices to an expert? A Buenos Aires street food tour bundles several bites with the stories behind them. A San Telmo walk with street food and drinks lasts 3.5 hours for groups of up to 10 and costs from $69. A city tour that mixes sights and street snacks takes 3 to 5 hours, from $38. For less, a 2-hour San Telmo walk that ends at the market starts from $13; its listing names no tastings.

FAQ

Fast answers to common questions.

Where can I eat cheaply in central Buenos Aires?
On Avenida Corrientes.

Its pizzerias, such as Güerrín, Las Cuartetas and El Palacio de la Pizza, serve pizza by the slice at the counter.16,18,20,1

What is pizza al paso?
A slice eaten standing.

Traditional pizzerias have a standing bar for a quick portion and a seated room with waiters.1

Is there a food market in Buenos Aires?
Mercado San Telmo.

Stalls serve food every day between 9 and 20 h, among the antique dealers.3,29

When is the Feria de Mataderos?
Sundays, March to December.

It runs from 11 AM to 7 PM, with empanadas, locro and folk music.12

Is street food safe in Buenos Aires?
With normal care, yes.

Tap water is drinkable, but Canada advises food and water precautions and hand washing.78,96

Should I carry cash?
A little, yes.

Some old places are cash only, and ATMs work 24 hours a day.36,98

How much is a street food tour?
From $38.

A city tour that mixes sights and street snacks takes 3 to 5 hours, from $38.

Sources

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  2. Visit Argentina (INPROTUR, national tourism board) · Five Bodegones You Should Visit in Buenos Aires ↩
  3. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Mercado San Telmo ↩
  4. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Feria de Mataderos ↩
  5. Visit Argentina (INPROTUR, national tourism board) · Where to eat in Argentina: The recommendations of three famous chefs ↩
  6. Visit Argentina (INPROTUR, national tourism board) · Where to eat in Argentina: The recommendations of three famous chefs ↩
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  16. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pizzería Güerrín ↩
  17. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pizzería Güerrín ↩
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  19. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Las Cuartetas ↩
  20. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · El Palacio de la Pizza ↩
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  22. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Los Inmortales ↩
  23. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · El Cuartito ↩
  24. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · El Cuartito ↩
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  26. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pin Pun ↩
  27. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · 1893 ↩
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More to read

More to read before you eat

GuideBuenos Aires food tour pricesGuideThe best food tours in Buenos Aires comparedGuideFood and wine in Buenos Aires: what to drinkGuideVegetarian, vegan and gluten free in Buenos Aires

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